A long awaited update

Wind and rain, summer 2015.

Cabby was due at Oare Creek to dry dock, but held in London while waiting for the winds to drop to a safe level for her to motor down to Kent.

And held.

Meanwhile the children had been packed away in readiness and we are staying between the Indian YMCA and the Cruising Association. Both are very reasonably priced. You do not have to be Indian, young, a man, Christian or a member of their association to benefit from the Fitzroy Square location with double rooms at £80 per night, inclusive of breakfast and dinner – an absolute bargain – great people and wonderful home cooked food.

And held.

The CA at Limehouse is very different, with the rooms modelled on cabins – small and comfortable with efficient and inventive use of space utilising many of the features you find on a narrow boat. Jeremy, quietly and calmly oversees things, in his charming way, between giving his incredibly well researched lectures on local maritime history at the CA and locations around the area.

And held.

The children returned before the boat had left and any hope of making the last Barge Matches of the season were rapidly fading.

It turned out to be one of the most consistently windy summers on record and not ideal for a costal barge with all her gear lashed down.

We moved to a friend’s house in Ealing and eventually weather, tides and people’s availability all aligned to motor her down to the Swale.

Into September, the decks are stripped back to the wood and the rain starts in earnest. I was not down in Kent enough to realise that the amount of water coming through the decks was damaging the inside. I had naively assumed some sort of covering, but the tarps there were were no match for the amount of rain. Another note for next time…

And rain.

Into October, racing season over and winter around the corner. The list of work is far from complete, yet the money has been long spent.

And rain.

It is time for Cabby to return and, on the nominated day, my son Lyulf and I approach the lock at Limehouse as Cabby appears, speeding with the tide, stem repaired and mast up. She pulls a magnificent, handbrake like, turn arriving exactly on time before impatiently stemming the tide until the lock keepers appear. The road swings back and she glides into the lock without the need for roving fenders.

Lyulf is jumping with excitement and we head round to the pontoon.

Lines looped over cleats. Beer tins fizz open and hand rolled cigarettes are lit as we climb aboard.

Below is a nightmare of mess and mould. Lyulf is in tears. Everything is suffering the effects of water from above and the family are staying aboard that evening.

For the second time in two years (the last time being when the marina moved us and left the systems powered down while we were away) the task of clearing out most material goods, clothes, books and children’s toys forms the start of a daunting clean up.

The lighting, any box, the cooker, everything was full of water, although, ironically, not the taps as the pumps had failed. In an effort to kick one when down, the coffee machine then exploded.

At least the sun is shining!

On and on it went into November and then December.

By the time we left for India at Christmas most of the work was done.

In fairness to Tim Goldsack, his team did an excellent job. The work on the stem and the decks is top quality. It is unfortunate that a combination of my naivety – I had assumed a false sense of security in the term dry dock – and the most unlucky weather imaginable had conspired against us.

I’d recommend his work in a shot and plan to go back when funds allow – the next job being getting the sails back up.

India was an adventure and, in the excitement, the children failed to notice that the trip meant missing the opening of Star Wars and a traditional Christmas.

In January they saw Star Wars in Greenwich. Work dominates and doesn’t seem to pay enough. Easter passes. The Medway match passes and it is June (well it currently will be in 10 minutes).

Much tinkering has happened on board and, having come to terms that we will only be out under motor this year, a season of painting – the final part of the clear up below decks and the much needed wood and windlasses on deck.

Now I have come out of hibernation, there is also the need to look at how best to maintain this most beautiful of barges. An approach and business plan following this enforced delay. Much advice to seek and people to speak to.

It should be fun if one keeps perspective. She is a wooden barge. It is going to heartache, frustration and much work. It will be worth it.

In the meantime, a few Tower Bridge lifts will keep the spirits up.

The Gill family

As is the nature of degrees of separation, it turns out that a friend of a friend is the great granddaughter of EA Gill who ran the London and Rochester Trading Company, builder and owner of many a Thames Sailing Barge including Cabby.

Cabby, herself, was named after his wife’s dog – although this has been questioned as it may well be Pudge who had that honour – it certainly sounds a more dog-like name.

They also, very kindly shared a photo of the boat that provided Cabby with a lot of her gear when we were re-rigged – Sirdar on 6th May 1953 in the Medway, from the Gill Family archives.

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Royal Naval College, Greenwich

The Royal Naval Hospital for Seamen, home of the Greenwich Pensioners and later the Royal Naval College, is now at the heart of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site. A truly marvelous place where Wren’s two domes are always bathed with sunshine in the memories of visiting as a small boy with my parents; perfectly balanced when viewed from the river and, since the departure of the Royal Navy in 1997, fully open to the public and quite magical.

I left today wondering about Sailing Barge Imogen, I assume she existed but have yet to check? How many screws are there in Miss Britain III? An awful lot. And, is that the same setting sun kissing the dome goodnight as it was almost 40 years ago?

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The story of Rupert

The Swale Match 2013, a novice and as it turned out winning crew. The most chatty of which was Rupert, a digital design director type who was inspired by the sailing.

He rocked up again to crew Cabby for a day trip up the Thames, with Tower Bridge being lifted for us – four times as it turned out.

And then he disappeared. He quit his job and took off for the southern ocean as a crew member on a yacht – St Georgia, Falklands, Antarctic, all the usual places.

There was a flying summer 2014 visit where he quickly passed his skippers exams and he was off again – this time as first mate.

All a bit of a change from South London and rather inspiring.

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Seasons greetings

Well, it’s snowing now, albeit a day late for those who had laid a bet.

In contrast, the sky at Limehouse in the run-up to Christmas has been pretty spectacular. As Charlie, our skipper, has been known to say, ‘red sky at night, shepherd’s delight; red sky in the morning, shepherd’s house on fire!’.

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Anyway, seasons greetings from all on Cabby and all best wishes for the coming year.

Some light reading

These come on the recommended list for those interested in finding out more about Thames Sailing Barges:

  • The illustrated guide to Thames Sailing Barges (7th edition), Rita & Peter Phillips
    • A guide to the current 39 active barges in the fleet.
  • A Handbook of Sailing Barges – Evolution and details of hull and rigging, F S Cooper
    • The definitive guide to the anatomy of Spritsail Barges
  • Sailing Barges, Martin Hazell
    • A Shire Album that gives a good, brief overview of Sailing Barge History
  • Last of the Sailormen, Bob Roberts
    • Bob’s memoir of skippering the Cambria, the last of the barges to carry a commercial cargo under sail.

Books

 

Autumn watch at Limehouse

While finishing prepping Cabby for winter today at Limehouse – and now that the rain has set in, realising there is still some work to do to – I was amazed to see a kingfisher flash by. The iridescent blue of their backs truly is something to see and something I do not think I will ever tire of.

By way of contrast, a red admiral fluttered past a moment later – in mid-October! I’d always thought they were migrant, however, maybe with the warmer, wet winters they have become resident. Regardless, a beautiful sight.

Now to check on the rain covers before bed…

Two men and a dog…

…being the classic sailing barge crew.

Every time I think of that it amazes me how tough they were – they are hard work to sail, let alone sandwiching that between a spot of loading and unloading.

If we discount the children (not in the ‘buy one get one free way’), then there are two of us and we almost ended up with a dog yesterday to complete the trinity.

Ros was crossing the footbridge when she witnessed some kids speeding around the corner on the footpath around the circumference of the basin. They almost collided with a young Collie bitch who, avoiding them, ended up in the basin. Ros sprinted back and managed to reach the dog from our pontoon. The Collie, who was collarless, managed to slip out of Ros’ hands and still terrified dashed down the other end of the pontoon and disappeared.

Jonathan from Dutch Barge Izula joined the search as concerned neighbours on the balconies of the flats looked on. They couldn’t find her and sadly gave her up for dead.

I arrived not long after this and decided to have one last look, if only to retrieve the body. Armed with a powerful floodlight-esque torch I swept along the edges of the basin as passing commuters hurried past giving me strange looks. At the north east corner, where the dock walls tower about 20′ above the water I thought I heard a duck – nothing. I moved on, and the same sound – again, nothing. Another few steps and there it was again. This time the torch picked up a pair of eyes reflecting green back at me. Result!

A climb down a ladder to the pontoon and then getting covered in duck poo and green algae before getting soaked, I managed to coax this exhausted shivering thing into my arms. Obviously, having done this and now having a torch in my mouth, it is not that easy to get back onto the quayside, so you can imagine my amusement when a young women asked me what I was doing, and when I told hold I was getting a drowning dog out of the water she went, ‘how sweet’ and walked off. Meanwhile, and equally helpful, was the chap who decided to take a picture, with dog scaring flash, of my efforts, no doubt to be shared on social media before he too wandered off.

Anyway, we both got out and were soon back on Cabby wrapped in towels. Slowly this beautiful little dog warmed up and Ros, having nipped to the shop to get some dog food, and I started to think about keeping her. In fairness, she was in such good condition that we knew that, having rung up the local Tower Hamlets dog pound – where they will look after her for a week before giving us the option to take her in, that she would be collected. However, it doesn’t hurt to dream.

Lunchtime today and we can wait no longer, so we ring John at the dog pound. The Collie had been given a clean bill of health by the vet first thing and, before they had returned, her family were waiting to collect her.

Obviously, we should be pleased, but it is amazing how quickly you can form an attachment with an animal – particularly when you have rescued her twice between you in the same night. We were going to call her ‘Buoy’ due to the nature of how we found her and the fact I like cheap wordplay…

So, Cabby still needs a barge dog, but at least this story had a happy ending… [sniff!]

Whose a lovely girl

Open House Weekend

Walking from the Tower back to Cabby at Limehouse proved to be one of those wonderful London days. Hydrogen came through the bridge and sailed past the Jubilee Sailing Trust’s Lord Nelson, moored along side of HMS Belfast.

East of the bridge lay the JST’s  Tenacious.

Adieu, Ardwina, Phoenician, Xylonite, Repertor and Gladys were all at home in St Katherine Docks. We were lucky enough to arrive in time to see Lady Daphne locking out before wandering across to look at the Royal Rowbarge Gloriana in all her shining glory.

On to Wapping and the Hermitage Moorings were open as part of the Open House Weekend. Charlie, the previous owner of Cabby was the welcoming committee and we got to walk around and have a look in a tug and a dutch barge among the other historic ships moored there, including Kitty.

Wapping police station, I believe the oldest in London and home of the ‘Water Boatmen’ – hence the insignia of the river police – was also open and we got to look around their charming museum.

All in all, a charming maritime themed day.

Image: Lady Daphne maneuvering out of the inner basin at St Katherine Docks.

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